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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Nov. 12 2003,5:35 pm

Post # 1

I need to replace most of the hardware on the boat before I get to seriouse about anything else. Â Most of the stuff I have now is a hodge-podge collection of steel and stainless. Â I want to go all stainless. Â Here's my question. Â

I've been looking in the industrial supply catalogs and have found two types of stainless hardware, Type 316 and 18-8 stainless. Â Both show minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi (I have no idea what the shear load is). Â Will this be adequate for the motor plates and hull attachments for the motor, or do I need to go with something stronger?? Â If I need to go stronger, what does anyone suggest??

Edited by Sleek-Jet on Nov. 12 2003,6:04 pm

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GoFastRacer Male

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Posted: Nov. 12 2003,7:00 pm

Post # 2

For general hardware mounting don't worry about it, just go to a bolt place and buy regular stainless nuts and bolts, that's plenty adequate!. Driveline bolts or anything under stress, get plated grade 8 bolts. I would suggest using grade 8 bolts for the motor plates also if you plan on the motor being removed often (storage, drain the oil,etc).

ALSO! Do NOT install stainless nuts and bolts dry, they will NOT come off, use a moly grease and you will be fine!.. :good

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Nov. 12 2003,7:16 pm

Post # 3

Thanks GoFast. Whoever put that motor in the boat before I got it did an interesting job. About half the bolts between the motor plates and the mounting brackets, and the brackets to the stringers were grade 5 course thread. All of those bolts were bent, or stretched, it was pretty scarry. :eek

The other half were fine thread stainless, they looked fine. I used those to get the motor mounted in the boat, then I'll go back and replace everything before I fire the engine up.

Sounds like I'll do everything grade 8 cad platted so it all matches. :good

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GoFastRacer Male

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Posted: Nov. 12 2003,7:20 pm

Post # 4

Sounds like a tipical factory dealio from back in the day!. I still would use all stainless except for the stress parts as I mentioned though!.. :good

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AZKC

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Posted: Nov. 13 2003,7:15 am

Post # 5

Quote (GoFastRacer @ Nov. 12 2003,7:00 pm)

ALSO! Do NOT install stainless nuts and bolts dry, they will NOT come off, use a moly grease and you will be fine!.. :good

How long does this take to happen? :stupid

I know I pull my motor in and out alittle more than I should but the stainless bolts seem to be pretty normal. Maybe I'm not tightening them enough.

KC

Edited by AZKC on Nov. 13 2003,2:56 pm

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Essex502

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Posted: Nov. 13 2003,10:10 am

Post # 6

Stainless to stainless fasteners can seize with the first tightening. This is guanteed with stainless pipe fittings where you MUST use teflon tape or some other antiseize compound to prevent this from happening. Anytime too stainless surfaces come into contact with substantial pressure you can have seizure with an antiseize compound.

Can't wait to get back to the Lake!

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GoFastRacer Male

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Posted: Nov. 13 2003,6:02 pm

Post # 7

You got that right!. Also that can happen with AN fittings when you put anno against anno dry, they will gall!..

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Essex502

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Posted: Nov. 14 2003,12:54 pm

Post # 8

I've had it where the stainless steel pipe thread was literally welded to the stainless steel fitting. Couldn't separate the two with the biggest wrench I had. I did use the wrench "upside-the-head" of the fool who put them together that way.

Can't wait to get back to the Lake!

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HolyMoly

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Posted: Nov. 14 2003,1:43 pm

Post # 9

I typically replace any stainless after one use, and moly grease is a must. There are McFadden Dale hardware stores in O.C. and Riverside that carry large qty's of stainless at a very good price.

I also have a habit of cleaning the threads with a tap where I use stainless bolts on the engine and other places that don't have nuts. Preventitve is so much easier than having to break a bolt, then drill it, and get out the easy out, then try to salvage the bolt hole.

Plus, with new bolts, it always looks very sharp!!

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