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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 08 2003,12:35 pm Post # 1 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
My engine has about four hours on it and I noticed a slight clicking noise when idling. It seems to be coming from the valve train but I am not sure. I have plenty of oil pressure 80 – 60 psi and plenty of oil in the engine. What could it be and what should I be looking for?

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Post Icon Posted: June 08 2003,4:01 pm Post # 2 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Probably just need to readjust the valves. After the first few hours alot of stuff starts to settles down to its happy place.

This seems to be my motors happy place....torn apart....AGAIN


Every bearing had damage, probably from the junk running in the oil.  I'll fire off a new topic later so ya can watch the sequil to how to waste money that ya don't have  :beat

KC

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Post Icon Posted: June 08 2003,4:44 pm Post # 3 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (miller19j @ June 08 2003,12:35 pm)
My engine has about four hours on it and I noticed a slight clicking noise when idling. It seems to be coming from the valve train but I am not sure. I have plenty of oil pressure 80 – 60 psi and plenty of oil in the engine. What could it be and what should I be looking for?

You have water log exhaust manifolds right?, if I'm right, before getting deep in this, check for a slight leak in the exhaust manifolds, it can sound like a lifter at idle and you would not hear it when running because of the noise. BTW, you don't use manifold gaskets right? :eek  If that checks out OK, take a socket extention or anythig you have that can be used to simulate a stetascope and put it up against the valve covers, if it's a liter(s), you will hear it. If it is lifters, run the valves again. Take note of each one to see if any are loose(they should all be a half turn past zero) and if you find one loose, if you use stock nuts check the interference, if it turns easy then you need to change it. Now the pisser, if all this checks out OK, do you get this clicking sound when the motor is cold or just after running the shit out of it and the oil is hot???. If so you may have cheapie lifters, that's very common. The tollerances on some of those are way out to lunch and you get excessive blead down at idle when the oil is thin from heat. Your oil pressure is more than adequate so that ain't the problem. Let us know what you find!.. :)
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Post Icon Posted: June 08 2003,7:57 pm Post # 4 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
K.C.,
At least you're pretty good at it,though...(the R&R thing)...
If that's any consolation... :rolleyes  :(

Deal with it!
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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 08 2003,8:24 pm Post # 5 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I noticed the noise when the engine was cold and I was idling away from the launch ramp. I lifted the engine cover to see if I had any leaks and heard it. It is not noticeable when the cover is down.

I do have Log style exhaust. I am currently running exhaust manifold gaskets on them (from my felpro engine kit), should I, is that wrong? Do I need a special kind?  I checked the logs with a dial indicator before I mounted them and they were flat. I think that one of my studs is borderline stripped and should probably be replaced. So I wouldn’t be surprised if it was an exhaust leak.

As far as the valve train goes when I first adjusted the valves I set them to 1 turn after the slop was taken out of the pushrod. This is what the rebuild book that I was using recommended. I have sense read several different books and they all have different setting from ¼ turn all the way to 1 ½ turn. It is hard to know what is right!

The lifters are Isky Hydraulic Superlifters they were in my cam set with the cam springs and all the other valve train parts. The nuts are Isky Poly Locks and are locked down with their set screw.

I haven’t really run her up yet I am still taking it easy to make sure everything is OK before I get my foot in it. I have spent most of the time around 3500 but have gone up to 4000.

Thanks for all the help guys without you guys I would be lost.  :good

Edited by miller19j on June 08 2003,8:28 pm

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,6:15 am Post # 6 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Sounds like an exhaust leak to me. A lot of times when you have a very slight leak when it's cold, it will go away after everything expands from the heat, but that stud being almost stripped don't help!. You should not run gaskets on logs, they go on like the factory cast iron manifolds. I've seen tons of them at the swap meets because of that, they end up all warped and they won't seal so be real careful if you use gaskets!..

I've never understood the theory that these guys have that write those manuals with all the different settings for lifters. The only reason for preload is to keep the plunger from beating up against the retainer so you don't need 1 1/2 turns, that's getting close to bottoming out and that could happen if you're at speed and grabbed air and rpm to the moon time, then you end up with bent pushrods at least. Not only that but the rocker arm ratio changes too, wth less preload you have more lift. I never go more than 1/2 turn max!. BTW, you're motor is broken in, run the shit out of it man, wake it up!.. :good
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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,8:35 am Post # 7 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
So I am not supposed to run gaskets on the logs. Do I put RTV or something on there or just bolt them on straight? My logs have a water cooled flange so they are a little different than the Nickson type that just cools the log portion. They had gaskets on there when I pulled them apart so I assumed that I needed them when I put it back together. It just seems kind of strange to bolt them directly on.



The lifters are currently loaded at 1 turn should I back them off to ½? Or is it ok where it is?

When I get to the bottom of the noise and get it fixed I will open her up.  :jumpie

Thanks for the help

Edited by miller19j on June 09 2003,8:37 am

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,9:44 am Post # 8 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I run gaskets Mr Miller. I have run no gaskets before also, I would not use any RTV if ya take out your gaskets.

1 turn is ok, I usually do a 3/4 turn.

Get out and run that thing, I made need a ride to the party from you or the Knuckleheads :alien

KC

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,10:08 am Post # 9 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (miller19j @ June 09 2003,8:35 am)
So I am not supposed to run gaskets on the logs. Do I put RTV or something on there or just bolt them on straight? My logs have a water cooled flange so they are a little different than the Nickson type that just cools the log portion. They had gaskets on there when I pulled them apart so I assumed that I needed them when I put it back together. It just seems kind of strange to bolt them directly on.



The lifters are currently loaded at 1 turn should I back them off to ½? Or is it ok where it is?

When I get to the bottom of the noise and get it fixed I will open her up.  :jumpie

Thanks for the help

Ooops, should have mentioned about your setting, 1 turn is fine, no need to redo it now. The logs were made to be installed without gaskets just like the factory did, the reason is because just like the logs will warp from squishing the gaskets, the cast iron manifolds won't warp, they break that's the reason for no gaskets. But  for them to seal good, the head suface must be true and no corrosion, most people don't think about that when they take the heads in and I've noticed that none of the machine shops ever ask if you want that area surfaced, at least they have never asked me!. BTW, NO silicone. If you have gaskets on there now, don't worry about it leave em there, just be very careful not to overtighten them and don't forget, as the gaskets compress, the manifolds will loosen some and you can tighten them up again and that's how you can eventually warp the the gasket surface!.. :)
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,10:09 am Post # 10 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (AZKC @ June 09 2003,9:44 am)
I run gaskets Mr Miller. I have run no gaskets before also, I would not use any RTV if ya take out your gaskets.

1 turn is ok, I usually do a 3/4 turn.

Get out and run that thing, I made need a ride to the party from you or the Knuckleheads :alien

KC

Soooo, do we have that thing torn down yet!!.. :)  :jumpie
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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,10:44 am Post # 11 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Is there a torque setting I should use to make sure they are all the same or do I just tighten them up until they all seem the same?  

Is there a trick (without using a stud remover) to removing studs or do I just need to go buy a stud remover?

Miller(the man with ten thousand questions)19j

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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,10:50 am Post # 12 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (AZKC @ June 09 2003,10:44 am)
Get out and run that thing, I made need a ride to the party from you or the Knuckleheads :alien

KC

I think I am probably going to bum a ride. I am a little nervous about taking the miller. It rides pretty low in the water!

But the ride I was going to bum flaked on me. So I am not sure what I am doing now.  :stupid

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,10:51 am Post # 13 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I've seen people use two nuts jammed together, then backing the stud out with a wrench.

I splurged a few years ago and bought one of Snap-On's stud removal/instalation kits.   :good

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,11:24 am Post # 14 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (miller19j @ June 09 2003,10:44 am)
Is there a torque setting I should use to make sure they are all the same or do I just tighten them up until they all seem the same?  

Is there a trick (without using a stud remover) to removing studs or do I just need to go buy a stud remover?

Miller(the man with ten thousand questions)19j

There probably is but I don't know it, never use it, I just snug them down. Just don't use the "If in dought, strip it" method, that don't work!  :laugh .

As Sleek says, you can tighten 2 nuts together and back it off but if the threads are shot, then you will have to use a stud puller!.. :eek

GoFast(the man with not that many answers) :laugh
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,1:06 pm Post # 15 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 09 2003,10:09 am)
Quote (AZKC @ June 09 2003,9:44 am)
I run gaskets Mr Miller. I have run no gaskets before also, I would not use any RTV if ya take out your gaskets.

1 turn is ok, I usually do a 3/4 turn.

Get out and run that thing, I made need a ride to the party from you or the Knuckleheads :alien

KC

Soooo, do we have that thing torn down yet!!.. :)  :jumpie

Yep I'm heading over to the machine shop today ta drop off the rods and/or talk to him about a short block he has.

My crankshaft is junk ya ever use Eagle or Scat crankshafts?

KC

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,7:03 pm Post # 16 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Eagle or Scat, maybe in a stocker but not a race motor, that's Taiwan shit!. :eek
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,8:42 pm Post # 17 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 09 2003,8:03 pm)
Eagle or Scat, maybe in a stocker but not a race motor, that's Taiwan shit!. :eek

I was going to use one of those, but then I found this guy that said he had a couple of forged steel cranks for sale. :D
;)

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,8:53 pm Post # 18 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (Sleek-Jet @ June 09 2003,8:42 pm)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 09 2003,8:03 pm)
Eagle or Scat, maybe in a stocker but not a race motor, that's Taiwan shit!. :eek

I was going to use one of those, but then I found this guy that said he had a couple of forged steel cranks for sale. :D
;)

That's funny!.  :laugh BTW, how did those parts turn out?. :)
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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,8:58 pm Post # 19 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 09 2003,9:53 pm)
Quote (Sleek-Jet @ June 09 2003,8:42 pm)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 09 2003,8:03 pm)
Eagle or Scat, maybe in a stocker but not a race motor, that's Taiwan shit!. :eek

I was going to use one of those, but then I found this guy that said he had a couple of forged steel cranks for sale. :D
;)

That's funny!.  :laugh BTW, how did those parts turn out?. :)

Gonna call the machinist tomorrow and find out.

If he works as fast as everyone else around here, he hasn't started on 'em yet.  :rolleyes

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Post Icon Posted: June 09 2003,9:51 pm Post # 20 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
You say you live FKN Phoenix!. :angry  :laugh
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Post Icon Posted: June 10 2003,5:14 am Post # 21 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
:rotflmao  :rotflmao  :beat

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Post Icon Posted: June 10 2003,8:30 am Post # 22 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
That's about what it is in this shithole!. :angry
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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 11 2003,10:27 am Post # 23 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I ordered a Stud Extractor and am going to fix the iffy stud this weekend. Then if the noise is still there I will readjust the valves at ½ a turn this time. I will let you guys know what happens.  :comp

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Post Icon Posted: June 11 2003,7:01 pm Post # 24 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I'am no jet-boat guy, but I was a Hot Rodder...Why can't you put it in the water , take off the valve cover..put down alot of old rags , fire it up and find the nasty lifter? Tighten it up and good for go?

Exhaust leaks do sound like loose tappits also, I just through this in ...might have a " JET " someday and I read alot of stuff about them and I like to alot about these #455@5%$3 boats...J/K :D  :jumpie  :jumpie

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Post Icon Posted: June 12 2003,6:36 am Post # 25 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (Kim Hanson @ June 11 2003,7:01 pm)
I'am no jet-boat guy, but I was a Hot Rodder...Why can't you put it in the water , take off the valve cover..put down alot of old rags , fire it up and find the nasty lifter? Tighten it up and good for go?

Hmmm, why would you want throw hot oil all over the place when all you have to do is pop the valve cover and turn the motor over by hand and look for a loose rocker??.. :confused  :)  :)
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