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LGCDEVIL
Boatless
Yorba Linda
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Posted: July 26 2004,3:18 pm |
Post # 1 |
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I'm having trouble with the main circuit breaker. After running the boat at speed, the CB pops when I shut the motor off. I can idle all day with no problems, but as soon as I turn some RPM's, the CB pops. I had this problem once before, and went from a 30 amp CB to a 50 amp, and it cured the problem. I just had the alternator checked and it was good. The guage was reading about 15 the day before I started having problems, but it dropped back down to 13-14 right before the CB started popping. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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| Member # 207 | Joined: 8-29-2003 | |
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LGCDEVIL
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Yorba Linda
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Posted: July 26 2004,3:48 pm |
Post # 3 |
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It is internal. The thing just ran good for 4 mos. Just switched to Optima batteries, but didn't have any trouble the first few days out. I haven't added anything to the boat but the batteries.
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| Member # 207 | Joined: 8-29-2003 | |
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LGCDEVIL
Boatless
Yorba Linda
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Posted: July 26 2004,5:08 pm |
Post # 5 |
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It's a '91, but everything is new. It is a manual re-set CB.
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Sleek-Jet
Aquarius
HDF Supporter
The Cooler
  
Batavia, IL
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Big 'Ole Inner-tube
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Posted: July 26 2004,5:22 pm |
Post # 6 |
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CB's pop on current, so most likely you've got an intermitant short somewhere in the system.
I would check all my wires, make sure you haven't chaffed through somewhere. Â If that's the case, it would explain the breaker blowing at speed instead of at an idle.
Get down and look at all of the harness carefully. Â Pay close attention to where it's clamped, that's always a good spot for chaffing. Â Check for bad splices in the wires. Â Make sure all your connections are clean and well insulated. Â If you still can't find anything try gently tugging on the harness when you've got power on it. Â If you pull in one spot and the breaker pops, you've probably found your short.
You can also ring the harness out and look for shorts between wires as well with an ohm meter, but that will take some time. Â
Try checking voltages at different points in the system. Â It should be fairly constant throught. Â If you are getting more than a volt or so drop from the alternator to the load, you might need to re-wire.
If all else fails, replace the circuit breaker. Â I've seen them get "weak" and start poping at lower than rated amps.
Edited by Sleek-Jet on July 26 2004,5:24 pm
A dog doesn't care if you're rich or poor, educated or illiterate, clever or dull. Give him your heart and he will give you his.
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| Member # 81 | Joined: 2-07-2003 | |
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LGCDEVIL
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Yorba Linda
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Posted: July 26 2004,5:42 pm |
Post # 7 |
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Thanks for the suggestions. Here's one more: What is the correct way to run water to the motor/exhaust? Right now I have a 3/8 "T" out of the jet. One goes through a ball valve then splits to the headers (Lightning). The other side of the "T" goes through a water pressure regulator, then a ball valve, into the front of the motor, out of the thermostat housing into a Dan Olsen cooler and dumps out the back of the boat. The temp has been running in the 170-175 range, but got up to around 180-185 last time out. I don't want to run too much water pressure to the motor, but 180 sounds a little high. It's a 580" Merlin block with Brodix alum. heads. I usually just run a gate valve to the motor, but the motor builder freaked out about the pressure, hence the regulator.
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GoFastRacer
HDF Supporter
V-Driver For Life!
  
Big River, Ca
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Spectra20
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Posted: July 26 2004,8:45 pm |
Post # 8 |
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Nothing wrong with 180, that's what your daily driver runs at!..Don't know about the cooler though, usually you run water thru the cooler first then to the motor.  Whatever you do though, don't restrict water on the outlet or you'll build up pressure in the block and end up with a milkshake!.. 
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LGCDEVIL
Boatless
Yorba Linda
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Posted: July 27 2004,9:39 am |
Post # 9 |
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Sleek & GoFast, thanks for your help.
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