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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: Feb. 01 2005,4:55 am |
Post # 6 |
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Yep, gotta keep it original for sure!..
Actually it's a pretty easy thing to turn it over, the wife and I turned mine over, it turns over on it's own so there's no strain!..
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: Feb. 27 2005,7:43 pm |
Post # 11 |
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Well it's hard to tell by the pics exactly the condition all those spots are but, what you need to do is grind out the cracks and any air pockets you see. Then build the areas up with cloth and glass and then sand it down smoothe, then you can finish it off with whatever wish, gel, paint, speed coat etc!..
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: Feb. 28 2005,7:54 pm |
Post # 13 |
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Well I'm far from being a pro at glassing but I do know that resin/gelcoat is not structural by itself and it just cracks, never heard of using talc don't sound right to me but??..To prove it works you have to put it to the test and see if it holds up. Pesonally I would use cloth with resin then a finish coat and sand it smoothe. If you want the bottom the same color as the rest of the boat you can get the pigment and put it in the gelcoat and spray it on, or just speedcoat the back half!..
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Sleek-Jet
Aquarius
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The Cooler
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Big 'Ole Inner-tube
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Posted: Feb. 28 2005,8:12 pm |
Post # 14 |
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JBB's thread on his Cobra resto is probably the best explanation of fiberglass repair I've seen on the boat boards yet.
The Link:
http://www.riverratlife.com/forums....=000057
Infomaniac described a good technique for laying mat. By precutting the cloth, placing it on plastic, adding resin, then folding the plastic over to make a sandwich and rolling all the air out. Then just trim in sandwich to the size you need, peel one side of the plastic away, and apply the mat and resin like a sticker.
A dog doesn't care if you're rich or poor, educated or illiterate, clever or dull. Give him your heart and he will give you his.
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| Member # 81 | Joined: 2-07-2003 | |
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: Feb. 28 2005,8:26 pm |
Post # 15 |
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That's kinda what I did on the floor on the Nordic in spots!.
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: Mar. 01 2005,4:36 am |
Post # 17 |
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Quote (Sleek-Jet @ Mar. 01 2005,4:16 am) | Quote (GoFastRacer @ Feb. 28 2005,9:26 pm) | That's kinda what I did on the floor on the Nordic in spots!. |
I wouldn't know since you stopped posting updates... Â Â Â Â Â Â |
Only because YOU brought all that shit weather here and I couldn't get anything done, so there!..
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: Mar. 01 2005,10:34 am |
Post # 19 |
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On the little stuff that's shallow Bondo works good, and to get a real smoothe finish you can use a dab of 3M spot filler, that is not porous like Bondo!..
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: Mar. 02 2005,4:39 am |
Post # 21 |
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Quote (ICETOM420 @ Mar. 01 2005,3:09 pm) | Quote (GoFastRacer @ Mar. 01 2005,10:34 am) | On the little stuff that's shallow Bondo works good, and to get a real smoothe finish you can use a dab of 3M spot filler, that is not porous like Bondo!.. |
But not regular car bondo right.I need some marine underwater shtuff.I think I found some glass filled bondo type o stuff that I am gonna check out later on my way home.. |
Yep you can use "Bondo", also you can use "Marine-Tex" but it's more expensive though!..
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: Mar. 03 2005,4:52 am |
Post # 24 |
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Quote (GlassMan @ Mar. 02 2005,10:12 am) | If you need a thickening agent use Cabosil, micro balloons or very finely chopped glass strand. West System makes several densities of micro balloons.
If you only need a small amount, PM me . I'll be happy to send you some. I think I have about 200 lbs left. |
Hey G, will that stuff prevent resin from running?, it's a bitch putting it on the stringers it just runs like water, same on the floor it wants ro run and puddle along the stringers!....Thanks...
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