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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Jan. 31 2005,8:36 am Post # 1 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

So after a couple of years of saying that I was gonna fix the bottom of the boat I finally took the first step :rolleyes .

Off the trailer

Please don't fall

Wait here

Bottoms Up

The resting place,holds the boat great and can roll in and out of the garage.

Some minor scratches

And it fits inside

Gotta figure out how to fix this I guess :rolleyes

Thanks to my buddies John & Tim for comin by and helpin me out  :good .



Now to figure out where to start grindin and sandin :stupid.Stay tuned :sleep


My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-bitch.
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Post Icon Posted: Jan. 31 2005,6:02 pm Post # 2 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Very ingeniouse on flipping the boat and getting it off the trailer at the same time.   :good

I hope you're going to keep the green metal flake.  :cool    :good


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Post Icon Posted: Jan. 31 2005,6:07 pm Post # 3 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Yeah gota keep then green metal flake :good


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procraftkevMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Jan. 31 2005,6:36 pm Post # 4 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Ya gota stay with the retro green flake! :good


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Post Icon Posted: Jan. 31 2005,8:55 pm Post # 5 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

that looks like a lot of work.


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 01 2005,4:55 am Post # 6 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Yep, gotta keep it original for sure!.. :good

Actually it's a pretty easy thing to turn it over, the wife and I turned mine over, it turns over on it's own so there's no strain!.. :)  :good
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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 01 2005,4:58 am Post # 7 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

This will have to be replaced for sure!.. :eek  :)

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ICETOMMale Offline
Gemini

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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 01 2005,7:19 am Post # 8 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ Feb. 01 2005,4:58 am)
This will have to be replaced for sure!.. :eek  :)

I was actually thinking I could grind it flat at the bottom of the break and make a new piece and weld it on a little at a time so as not to heat it to much.Think that'll work?
Knowbody needs to worry about the GREEN it's not going anywhere,I'm only fixing gouges and scratches it doesnt seem to have any hook so I don't have to deal with all that.


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 01 2005,9:35 am Post # 9 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

I would think you could weld it and repair it that way. It would save a lot of work.  But I also think I can build motors :break


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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 27 2005,2:13 pm Post # 10 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

So I started grinding out the gouges and sanding the area that is gonna get fixxed.Here is a link to the pics of the victim.Bottom Work.If any one wants to throw in their expertice or advice I am listening carefully as this is a learning experience every step of the way for me :stupid .


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 27 2005,7:43 pm Post # 11 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Well it's hard to tell by the pics exactly the condition all those spots are but, what you need to do is grind out the cracks and any air pockets you see. Then build the areas up with cloth and glass and then sand it down smoothe, then you can finish it off with whatever wish, gel, paint, speed coat etc!.. :good
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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 28 2005,7:48 am Post # 12 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

All of those spots are ground out and ready to be repaired.None of them is all that big except for one corner of the back where there was an air pocket that I just happend to grind into :eek to my suprise..
I was told that I could fill most of the grooves with a mixture of gelcoat/resin and talc as a filler,that is what I did on one test patch and it seemes to be pretty good.Is it better with glass cloth? :stupid .I will top it all off with what I hope is a close match to the color that is there already..


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 28 2005,7:54 pm Post # 13 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Well I'm far from being a pro at glassing but I do know that resin/gelcoat is not structural by itself and it just cracks, never heard of using talc don't sound right to me but??..To prove it works you have to put it to the test and see if it holds up. Pesonally I would use cloth with resin then a finish coat and sand it smoothe. If you want the bottom the same color as the rest of the boat you can get the pigment and put it in the gelcoat and spray it on, or just speedcoat the back half!..
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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 28 2005,8:12 pm Post # 14 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

JBB's thread on his Cobra resto is probably the best explanation of fiberglass repair I've seen on the boat boards yet.  

The Link:

http://www.riverratlife.com/forums....=000057

Infomaniac described a good technique for laying mat.  By precutting the cloth, placing it on plastic, adding resin, then folding the plastic over to make a sandwich and rolling all the air out.  Then just trim in sandwich to the size you need, peel one side of the plastic away, and apply the mat and resin like a sticker.


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Post Icon Posted: Feb. 28 2005,8:26 pm Post # 15 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

That's kinda what I did on the floor on the Nordic in spots!. :good
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 01 2005,3:16 am Post # 16 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ Feb. 28 2005,9:26 pm)
That's kinda what I did on the floor on the Nordic in spots!. :good

I wouldn't know since you stopped posting updates...  :rolleyes  :rolleyes  :ass  :bebe :D  :laugh  :laugh


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 01 2005,4:36 am Post # 17 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (Sleek-Jet @ Mar. 01 2005,4:16 am)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ Feb. 28 2005,9:26 pm)
That's kinda what I did on the floor on the Nordic in spots!. :good

I wouldn't know since you stopped posting updates...  :rolleyes  :rolleyes  :ass  :bebe :D  :laugh  :laugh

Only because YOU brought all that shit weather here and I couldn't get anything done, so there!.. :bebe  :bebe  :guns  :guns  :beat  :beat  :laugh  :laugh  :laugh
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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 01 2005,7:27 am Post # 18 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Yeah I think that I am gonna use something different.None of the spots are too bad so I thing a bondo type of thing is gonna work for most of it and the bigger spots I will be using mat and resin..Thanks for taking time to give advice.. :D  :good


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 01 2005,10:34 am Post # 19 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

On the little stuff that's shallow Bondo works good, and to get a real smoothe finish you can use a dab of 3M spot filler, that is not porous like Bondo!.. :good
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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 01 2005,2:09 pm Post # 20 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ Mar. 01 2005,10:34 am)
On the little stuff that's shallow Bondo works good, and to get a real smoothe finish you can use a dab of 3M spot filler, that is not porous like Bondo!.. :good

But not regular car bondo right.I need some marine underwater shtuff.I think I found some glass filled bondo type o stuff that I am gonna check out later on my way home..


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 02 2005,4:39 am Post # 21 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (ICETOM420 @ Mar. 01 2005,3:09 pm)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ Mar. 01 2005,10:34 am)
On the little stuff that's shallow Bondo works good, and to get a real smoothe finish you can use a dab of 3M spot filler, that is not porous like Bondo!.. :good

But not regular car bondo right.I need some marine underwater shtuff.I think I found some glass filled bondo type o stuff that I am gonna check out later on my way home..

Yep you can use "Bondo", also you can use "Marine-Tex" but it's more expensive though!.. :good
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ICETOMMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 02 2005,7:17 am Post # 22 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Cool Thanks Alot I guess I better go shopping and get fillin :good so I can get busy sandin and sprayin :D


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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 02 2005,9:12 am Post # 23 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

If you need a thickening agent use Cabosil, micro balloons or very finely chopped glass strand. West System makes several densities of micro balloons.

If you only need a small amount, PM me . I'll be happy to send you some. I think I have about 200 lbs left. :good


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: Mar. 03 2005,4:52 am Post # 24 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ Mar. 02 2005,10:12 am)
If you need a thickening agent use Cabosil, micro balloons or very finely chopped glass strand. West System makes several densities of micro balloons.

If you only need a small amount, PM me . I'll be happy to send you some. I think I have about 200 lbs left. :good

Hey G, will that stuff prevent resin from running?, it's a bitch putting it on the stringers it just runs like water, same on the floor it wants ro run and puddle along the stringers!....Thanks...
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