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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 01 2005,7:46 pm

Post # 1

OK, after playing with the D/D dyno to see what kinda ball park #'s I could come up with, here is the cam that I've settled on for now:

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=16239

I figure that my compression ratio should be around 10:1, and running the E-brock heads should give me a nice torque motor for playing around, but still end up in the high 300 hp range.

This cam simulates out to having a nice flat torque curve between 2000 and about 5000 or so.

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,5:13 am

Post # 2

That's a pretty nice cam, a little mild I would think though :stupid

BTW, did you notice that those specs are based on 1.76 rocker ratio it will be less with 1.73

With those Edelbrock heads you should get more than 300hp too!.. :good

What do you have for gears and prop at this time???...

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AZKC

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,9:32 am

Post # 3

What are you building a grandpas boat :bebe

put a cam in that thing

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AZKC

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,9:40 am

Post # 4

This will bark a little and still be drivable, Comp Cam

Part Number 33-240-4
Engine 1963-1976 Ford
352ci-428ci
8cyl.
Grind Number FB 292H-10
Description

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.56 0.56
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 292 292

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 40 72
Exhaust 80 32

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 244 244
Lobe Lift 0.3235 0.3235
Lobe Separation 110

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recommended Valve Springs 924-16

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,1:19 pm

Post # 5

Quote (GoFastRacer @ Feb. 02 2005,6:13 am)

That's a pretty nice cam, a little mild I would think though :stupid

BTW, did you notice that those specs are based on 1.76 rocker ratio it will be less with 1.73

With those Edelbrock heads you should get more than 300hp too!.. :good

What do you have for gears and prop at this time???...

That's as close to the factory "B" cam as I could find. Â In fact I never could find the specs on a "B" cam. Â Lunati lists a OE grind for a "C60Z-B" 428 CJ cam as being pretty close to the Crower though.

The 'puter actually puts the HP over 400, but I've found that the D/D is a little optomistic at times. Â So I figure I'm looking at around 380 - 390 hp with this cam. Â That's what I mean by high 300's on the hp.

If I go over 220 on the duration, without being able to change much more on the engine, than the torque falls on it's ass. Â That comp cam makes a shit load of hp, but the Crower makes more torque over a larger rpm band. Â Also it's a solid, and I decided I don't really want to mess with that right now. Â

Off the top of my head I don't know the gears or prop, I've got them writen down here somewhere.

Edited by Sleek-Jet on Feb. 03 2005,2:43 am

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AZKC

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,3:18 pm

Post # 6

Torque smork RPM's and HP is where its at :break

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,3:31 pm

Post # 7

Your Comp cam is down 50 ft/lbs and only gains me about 25 hp over the crower.... at an additional 1500 rpm. Â

Besides, I'm going to need as much grunt as I can get, what with having to pull the blue canoe all over the place. Â

Edited by Sleek-Jet on Feb. 02 2005,5:53 pm

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AZKC

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,3:53 pm

Post # 8

Har Har, are you sure its not to get the Cambell up on plane with that Rhino lining yellow paint job :bebe

Focker

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,5:12 pm

Post # 9

At least my boat is not cracked.... Â :ass

Edited by Sleek-Jet on Feb. 02 2005,5:13 pm

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Posted: Feb. 02 2005,5:51 pm

Post # 10

Yet

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Posted: Feb. 03 2005,4:54 am

Post # 11

Quote (Sleek-Jet @ Feb. 02 2005,2:19 pm)

Off the top of my head I don't know the gears or prop, I've got them writen down here somewhere.

Just dug up an old factory muscle catalog, this is easier to read!..Back in the day Crower did a hell of a lot of R&D with the FE and have about the best cams out there for them!.. :good

Edited by GoFastRacer on Feb. 03 2005,7:26 am

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 04 2005,1:27 pm

Post # 12

OK, since I'm going with adjustable rocker arms, I started playing around with solid cams. Right now it looks like this one.

http://www.crower.com/misc....=17&y=1

D/D puts the power at 462 hp@5500 rpm and 486 ft/lbs@4500 rpm. Of course that is computer numbers.

A little more duration than I've been considering, but I think the lobe seperation helps out. :stupid

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Posted: Feb. 04 2005,6:44 pm

Post # 13

Now that's more like it :good

that should work good, of course since you don't know what gear and prop you have, it can be a factor but you'll find out quick enough!

Dyno can be very accurate as long as all the input is accurate, the main factor is the heads, if you have the flow numbers for the heads you're using then it won't be just an estimate and you can get very close!. I did a 468 for a street Camaro for a friend and it came out at 750hp(don't remember the torque) then he built the motor according to the specs on D/D, he decided to put it on the dyno, on the best tune up it came in within 2hp and the torque was right on!...Also it's a good idea that you're going with a solid instead of a hydraulic because there's a few things that you can do to make the bottom end live a lot longer under severe use!.. :good

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Sleek-Jet

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Posted: Feb. 05 2005,5:24 am

Post # 14

That was my next question. What do I have to do now that I'm going to be running a solid lifter cam???

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Posted: Feb. 05 2005,5:48 am

Post # 15

Since you'll be running a solid you don't need all that oil up on top. You can plug up the lifter galleys and open up the restrictor in the back of the block to force oil to the mains since they get fed last. Also drill out that puny oil passage from the pump to the filter adaptor and if you have a 390 adaptor it should be replaced with a 427 one, if you look at the passage you'll see what I mean, you can also drill out the feed passage going to the top galley, all 427's came with larger passages. Another thing to do is match the oil holes in the block to the main bearings!.. I'll go thru my stuff and look for some pics of this stuff and post em for ya!.. :good

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Posted: Feb. 06 2005,10:36 am

Post # 16

Solid is lots of fun. You'll get very proficient in running the valves. :rotflmao

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Posted: Feb. 06 2005,12:15 pm

Post # 17

Should get some good rpms too.

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Posted: Feb. 06 2005,5:45 pm

Post # 18

Quote (jordanpaulk @ Feb. 06 2005,11:36 am)

Solid is lots of fun. Â You'll get very proficient in running the valves. Â :rotflmao

Aftermarket FE rockers use a stud and jam nut, once tighten they don't go nowhere!.

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Posted: Feb. 06 2005,5:46 pm

Post # 19

Quote (procraftkev @ Feb. 06 2005,1:15 pm)

Should get some good rpms too.

Yep!..

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Posted: Feb. 11 2005,11:58 pm

Post # 20

We run the solid in our little FE motor. Not to many problems. Broke a few rocker shafts. The cam in the galaxie is a little bit bigger.

You need this intake. Â

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Posted: Feb. 12 2005,7:54 am

Post # 21

Sneaky bastad :eek

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Posted: Feb. 13 2005,6:27 am

Post # 22

Quote (Kindsvater Flat @ Feb. 12 2005,12:58 am)

We run the solid in our little FE motor. Not to many problems. Broke a few rocker shafts. The cam in the galaxie is a little bit bigger.

You need this intake. Â

I used that manifold, that's a good one! :good

In the small FE's the trick was to swap the rocker shafts with 427 pieces, they are better quality, learned that the hard way in my GT390!. :beat