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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: June 05 2003,10:46 am |
Post # 6 |
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Holy shit, sorry to see that! Looks like rod bearings from the pic, and that looks like oil starvation. Did you put the rods in the right way?, also did you check the side crearance?, if you don't have enough clearance you won't pass the oil fast enough and you end up cooking the oil. Measure things up as you take it apart so you can correct it, otherwise you may not find the problem and end up doing it all over again!. Now you're talkin brain strain!..
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: June 05 2003,10:51 am |
Post # 9 |
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Quote (blown 472 @ June 05 2003,10:48 am) | That sucks, been there done that, now you need to check everything, torque the main caps with bearings in there after you figure out how much the crank will clean up at then check the clearances on the mains with an inside mic.
Then get the rods resized, figure out what the rod journals will clean up at and torque the rods with the bearings in them do this in a vise with some wood as not to hurt the rods, then check the inside dims and have the crank set up the clearances you need. Â I think fiat 048 runs them kinda loose, I think you can find him on hotboat in the gear head section.
I went thru and checked every thing and my clearance were .0025 on rods and mains and soo far the bearings are living. |
Did you get my last PM?.
Never mind, I got it!..
Edited by GoFastRacer on June 05 2003,10:56 am
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AZKC
Leo
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Jack of all trades. Master of none.
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1979 20ft Hawaiian Moonraker
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Posted: June 05 2003,11:17 am |
Post # 10 |
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Rods. I have been wondering about the cause alot. And here is what evidence I collected since the begining.
1. I don't think the machine shop resized the rods as I Â requested I think they just cked them. They went on the crank good and it turned pretty easy. I did not plastigauge them, I've not much faith in it. But I was satisfied with them they way it went together.
2. Oil level may have been an issue, I filled the motor with 9 qts, and upon trying to the ck oil level I was unable to tell on the screw-in dipstick what the full mark should be???? Â Â Â Â Any ideas where the full/add mark is? I should have researched that a little more. I did add one quart after the first run at the lake to be safe. That and I failed to allow for an empty oil filter on the initial fill up.
3. I did have good oil pressure(80lbs) but it did start to drop after the first few hours of break-in and got worse as time went on, but it was allways up at cold/warm start. It was at times at near zero but I had no lifter noise so I was assuming that the sender was weak or begining to fail, it is the original I believe. Also found the wire to the sender to be only held to terminal with a few strands and the nut was loose.
4. One thing that puzzled me was the amount of oil that drained from pan before I took it apart. It seemed like about only 6-7 qts and I had put 10 qts in. I'm goin to measure it later to see just for giggles. I saw no signs of oil on the plugs and I had no leaks, that may have been a part of the failure.
5. I'm putting new ujoints in the H-block while its down so I don't have to worry about them for awhile. You can blame yourself, the parts, the machine shop, the way ya break'em in, but bottom line is Shit Happens  Even the best blow up new stuff now and then.
So I've had my therapy post and I feel better Have to get ready for a monster yard sale we're having this weekend, so its on the back burner till Monday, but I'll do some research  on what way I want to go with this.  Maybe a 502 short block  would be the quickest fix
Oh yeah is it to early to start drinkin  Â
KC
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: June 05 2003,2:09 pm |
Post # 14 |
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Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,11:25 am) | Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,10:46 am) | Did you put the rods in the right way?, also did you check the side crearance?, if you don't have enough clearance you won't pass the oil fast enough and you end up cooking the oil. |
Define "right way" Â Nope on the side clearances(with my bionic eye they seemed fine) and I think oil temp or lack of oil caused it also.
KC |
The right way is the bearing tang facing out!.. Also the "bionic eye" don't cut it, feeler guages work!..
Also, you never trust the machine shop a 100%, even the best can make mistakes too and some don't give a rat's ass!, especially in AZ. You always double check as you assemble the motor!..
Edited by GoFastRacer on June 05 2003,7:02 pm
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: June 05 2003,7:03 pm |
Post # 20 |
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Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,3:41 pm) | Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,2:09 pm) | The right way is the bearing tang facing out!.. Also the "bionic eye" don't cut it, feeler guages work!.. |
Live by the sword....Die by the sword.
Tang, I would think thats the alignment notch thang for the bearing on the big end of rod.
KC |
Correctamundo!..
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GoFastRacer
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Posted: June 05 2003,7:06 pm |
Post # 21 |
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Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,3:47 pm) | [quote=miller19j,June 05 2003,1:29 pm] Those marks on the big ends of your rods is what I was looking for and did not see, should have questoned it and double ck'd like GFR mentioned. "Trust No One" ....not even yourself
KC |
Correctamundo again!..
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: June 05 2003,7:08 pm |
Post # 22 |
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Sooo, how's the rest of it look like???..
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| Member # 101 | Joined: 3-03-2003 | |
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: June 05 2003,7:44 pm |
Post # 24 |
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Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,7:34 pm) | I stopped at 1&2, had more pressing stuff going on. I really just want to pick up a short block and swap valve train and heads. I'm still kickin tires probably till Monday. Hell I may upgrade with HBjets stuff and roll out to OC for a road trip. Upgrade my pistons and make some more HP Â
KC |
What kind of heads do you have?, I have a 432 short block but it's 12 to 1 with 119CC heads!. Would that work??
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| Member # 101 | Joined: 3-03-2003 | |
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GoFastRacer
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Big River, Ca
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Posted: June 05 2003,7:45 pm |
Post # 25 |
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Something I'd like to point out!. In the 25+ yrs I been building motors for myself and others, I've only lost one (other than breaking parts racing). And that's only because I did the "if it turns over it's good" deal and it was in my daily driver, it lasted less than a 100 miles. That was a lesson learned. For one thing, machine shops are a dime a dozen and it's all production shit, if you want quality, YOU PAY and then you still don't trust it a 100%, you check evrything(assuming don't cut it) to make sure and you don't RUSH. Also if you don't have the tools for measuring(good ones are expensive), you do what it takes to get them, beg, borrow, steal, whatever but you need to use them to build a good motor. Another thing I learned the hard way is when you get the block done, you never let them put the cam bearings in, because unless you PAY EXTRA for them to clean it, it ain't clean!. Good machine shops will tell you that!. I could go on and on about this but Doug would probably kick my ass off the board for taking up all the space. It's a real bitch to put your hard earned money into your favorite toy, only to have it turn to shit when a little time could have prevented it, not to mention double the cost!. Been down that road before, ain't no fun!...
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