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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:11 am Post # 1 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply


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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,8:51 am Post # 2 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

ok KC, I give WHAT, I hope i see the motor coming out so you can get the ujoints out and fix the knocking. I hope it's not the engine sence last time you disconnected the pump and the knocking went away. Hope all goes well :good


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:05 am Post # 3 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

This was caused by a more aggresive knock, before I yanked it I disconnected it and started it and the H-block knock was gone but this one was still there :angry

#1 and #2 are trashed haven't ck'd the others, whats the point. Now to break out the Visa and get this bitch fixed. Anybody got parts/motors they want to move? Need to get goin, only 15 days to OP6C. Glad I'm not workin yet

K"people ask me why I drink"C   :drink


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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:22 am Post # 4 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

KC, Rod Bearings or Main Bearings? As I remember you had great oil pressure. If it's rod bearing I would remove rods and have crank polished or reground and make sure the to have rods resized to match. For this to happen it looks like no oil, or very little or the rods weren't matched right with the crank. Possibly too tight. Have a good machine shop check the clearances. Good luck and hope to see it running at OP6


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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:41 am Post # 5 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Thaaaat suuuuuucks... :(  
Hopefully,with the fundage,the time to work on it and a hand or two, you can get it done in two and a half weeks...piece of cake!!! :good  :good  :rolleyes


Deal with it!
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:46 am Post # 6 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Holy shit, sorry to see that! :eek Looks like rod bearings from the pic, and that looks like oil starvation. Did you put the rods in the right way?, also did you check the side crearance?, if you don't have enough clearance you won't pass the oil fast enough and you end up cooking the oil. Measure things up as you take it apart so you can correct it, otherwise you may not find the problem and end up doing it all over again!. Now you're talkin brain strain!.. :angry
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blown 472 Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:48 am Post # 7 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

That sucks, been there done that, now you need to check everything, torque the main caps with bearings in there after you figure out how much the crank will clean up at then check the clearances on the mains with an inside mic.

Then get the rods resized, figure out what the rod journals will clean up at and torque the rods with the bearings in them do this in a vise with some wood as not to hurt the rods, then check the inside dims and have the crank set up the clearances you need.  I think fiat 048 runs them kinda loose, I think you can find him on hotboat in the gear head section.

I went thru and checked every thing and my clearance were .0025 on rods and mains and soo far the bearings are living.


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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:49 am Post # 8 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Those are Rod bearings right?  Did you have the rods reworked when your crank was done? Isn’t this what happened last time?

That really sucks! I hope it didn’t damage anything else!


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,10:51 am Post # 9 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (blown 472 @ June 05 2003,10:48 am)
That sucks, been there done that, now you need to check everything, torque the main caps with bearings in there after you figure out how much the crank will clean up at then check the clearances on the mains with an inside mic.

Then get the rods resized, figure out what the rod journals will clean up at and torque the rods with the bearings in them do this in a vise with some wood as not to hurt the rods, then check the inside dims and have the crank set up the clearances you need.  I think fiat 048 runs them kinda loose, I think you can find him on hotboat in the gear head section.

I went thru and checked every thing and my clearance were .0025 on rods and mains and soo far the bearings are living.

Did you get my last PM?. :D

Never mind, I got it!.. :rolleyes


Edited by GoFastRacer on June 05 2003,10:56 am
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,11:17 am Post # 10 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Rods. I have been wondering about the cause alot. And here is what evidence I collected since the begining.

1. I don't think the machine shop resized the rods as I   requested I think they just cked them. They went on the crank good and it turned pretty easy. I did not plastigauge them, I've not much faith in it. But I was satisfied with them they way it went together.

2. Oil level may have been an issue, I filled the motor with 9 qts, and upon trying to the ck oil level I was unable to tell on the screw-in dipstick what the full mark should be????
       
Any ideas where the full/add mark is? I should have researched that a little more. I did add one quart after the first run at the lake to be safe. That and I failed to allow for an empty oil filter on the initial fill up.

3. I did have good oil pressure(80lbs) but it did start to drop after the first few hours of break-in and got worse as time went on, but it was allways up at cold/warm start. It was at times at near zero but I had no lifter noise so I was assuming that the sender was weak or begining to fail, it is the original I believe. Also found the wire to the sender to be only held to terminal with a few strands and the nut was loose.

4. One thing that puzzled me was the amount of oil that drained from pan before I took it apart. It seemed like about only 6-7 qts and I had put 10 qts in. I'm goin to measure it later to see just for giggles. I saw no signs of oil on the plugs and I had no leaks, that may have been a part of the failure.

5. I'm putting new ujoints in the H-block while its down so I don't have to worry about them for awhile.

You can blame yourself, the parts, the machine shop, the way ya break'em in, but bottom line is Shit Happens  Even the best blow up new stuff now and then.

So I've had my therapy post and I feel better :good Have to get ready for a monster yard sale we're having this weekend, so its on the back burner till Monday, but I'll do some research  on what way I want to go with this.  Maybe a 502 short block  :D would be the quickest fix :jumpie

Oh yeah is it to early to start drinkin :drink  :beer  :drink

KC


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,11:25 am Post # 11 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,10:46 am)
Did you put the rods in the right way?, also did you check the side crearance?, if you don't have enough clearance you won't pass the oil fast enough and you end up cooking the oil.

Define "right way"  :confused

Nope on the side clearances(with my bionic eye they seemed fine) and I think oil temp or lack of oil caused it also.

KC


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,11:32 am Post # 12 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (miller19j @ June 05 2003,10:49 am)
Those are Rod bearings right?  Did you have the rods reworked when your crank was done? Isn’t this what happened last time?

That really sucks! I hope it didn’t damage anything else!

Yep, same thing pretty much

Different journals, different crank, better oil pan and pump this time though. Rods are an issue that I wondering about, I asked to have them resized but I think they just cked them.

KC


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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,1:29 pm Post # 13 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

When I put my new pan in I had to put a new dipstick in as well. It did not come with instructions so I am not sure the proper way to do it but here is how I did it; I put the 10 quarts of oil in (it is a 10 quart pan.) and then made my mark according to that (calling that full).

That is a bummer about the engine. I don’t know much about this stuff but when my machinist was done with my rods you could definitely tell they were reworked. You could see the machine marks on the bearing races and the sides or the rods has fresh cross grinding marks on them. Maybe mine were really screwed up to begin with and that is why it was so evident. As I said I really don’t know much about this stuff.


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,2:09 pm Post # 14 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,11:25 am)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,10:46 am)
Did you put the rods in the right way?, also did you check the side crearance?, if you don't have enough clearance you won't pass the oil fast enough and you end up cooking the oil.

Define "right way"  :confused

Nope on the side clearances(with my bionic eye they seemed fine) and I think oil temp or lack of oil caused it also.

KC

The right way is the bearing tang facing out!.. Also the "bionic eye" don't cut it, feeler guages work!.. :)

Also, you never trust the machine shop a 100%, even the best can make mistakes too and some don't give a rat's ass!, especially in AZ. :angry You always double check as you assemble the motor!.. :peace


Edited by GoFastRacer on June 05 2003,7:02 pm
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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,3:41 pm Post # 15 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,2:09 pm)
The right way is the bearing tang facing out!.. Also the "bionic eye" don't cut it, feeler guages work!.. :)

Live by the sword....Die by the sword.

Tang, I would think thats the alignment notch thang for the bearing on the big end of rod.

KC


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,3:47 pm Post # 16 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (miller19j @ June 05 2003,1:29 pm)
When I put my new pan in I had to put a new dipstick in as well. It did not come with instructions so I am not sure the proper way to do it but here is how I did it; I put the 10 quarts of oil in (it is a 10 quart pan.) and then made my mark according to that (calling that full).

That is a bummer about the engine. I don’t know much about this stuff but when my machinist was done with my rods you could definitely tell they were reworked. You could see the machine marks on the bearing races and the sides or the rods has fresh cross grinding marks on them. Maybe mine were really screwed up to begin with and that is why it was so evident. As I said I really don’t know much about this stuff.

Did ya allow a quart for the filter? Thats what I'm doing next time make a mark with it full.

Those marks on the big ends of your rods is what I was looking for and did not see, should have questoned it and double ck'd like GFR mentioned.
"Trust No One" ....not even yourself

:good

KC


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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,4:13 pm Post # 17 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

I had 10 quarts in the pan. I had already filled the filter before putting it on (so 10 quarts +whatever was in the filter). What a pain in the ass that was. My stringer and logs don’t make it real easy to put a full filter in.


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miller19jMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,4:14 pm Post # 18 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Tang Isn’t that what the astronauts drink?  Oh never mind  :stupid


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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,4:49 pm Post # 19 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (miller19j @ June 05 2003,4:14 pm)
Tang Isn’t that what the astronauts drink?  Oh never mind  :stupid

I thought it was what I used to chase around when I was younger,           I'm sorry that was POONtang :rotflmao

KC


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:03 pm Post # 20 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,3:41 pm)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ June 05 2003,2:09 pm)
The right way is the bearing tang facing out!.. Also the "bionic eye" don't cut it, feeler guages work!.. :)

Live by the sword....Die by the sword.

Tang, I would think thats the alignment notch thang for the bearing on the big end of rod.

KC

Correctamundo!.. :good
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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:06 pm Post # 21 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,3:47 pm)
[quote=miller19j,June 05 2003,1:29 pm]
Those marks on the big ends of your rods is what I was looking for and did not see, should have questoned it and double ck'd like GFR mentioned.
"Trust No One" ....not even yourself

:good

KC

Correctamundo again!.. :D
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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:08 pm Post # 22 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Sooo, how's the rest of it look like???.. :eek  :)
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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:34 pm Post # 23 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

I stopped at 1&2, had more pressing stuff going on. I really just want to pick up a short block and swap valve train and heads. I'm still kickin tires probably till Monday. Hell I may upgrade with HBjets stuff and roll out to OC for a road trip. Upgrade my pistons and make some more HP  :jumpie

KC


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:44 pm Post # 24 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (AZKC @ June 05 2003,7:34 pm)
I stopped at 1&2, had more pressing stuff going on. I really just want to pick up a short block and swap valve train and heads. I'm still kickin tires probably till Monday. Hell I may upgrade with HBjets stuff and roll out to OC for a road trip. Upgrade my pistons and make some more HP  :jumpie

KC

What kind of heads do you have?, I have a 432 short block but it's 12 to 1 with 119CC heads!. Would that work?? :confused
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Post Icon Posted: June 05 2003,7:45 pm Post # 25 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Something I'd like to point out!. In the 25+ yrs I been building motors for myself and others, I've only lost one (other than breaking parts racing). And that's only because I did the "if it turns over it's good" deal and it was in my daily driver, it lasted less than a 100 miles. That was a lesson learned. For one thing, machine shops are a dime a dozen and it's all production shit, if you want quality, YOU PAY and then you still don't trust it a 100%, you check evrything(assuming don't cut it) to make sure and you don't RUSH. Also if you don't have the tools for measuring(good ones are expensive), you do what it takes to get them, beg, borrow, steal, whatever but you need to use them to build a good motor. Another thing I learned the hard way is when you get the block done, you never let them put the cam bearings in, because unless you PAY EXTRA for them to  clean it, it ain't clean!. Good machine shops will tell you that!. I could go on and on about this but Doug would probably kick my ass off the board for taking up all the space. It's a real bitch to put your hard earned money into your favorite toy, only to have it turn to shit when a little time could have prevented it, not to mention double the cost!. Been down that road before, ain't no fun!... :angry
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