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MrCord

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Posted: May 18 2005,9:28 am

Post # 1

I have or had I guess a Gen VI ZZ502 HP GM crate motor which blew and in my quest to find someone that can rebuild it I am getting some mixed responces...

One Guy says that you cannot rebuild this block
One Guy says that you can rebuild it.

One guy says that you can rebuild it but the last one that they rebuild lasted 4 hours and cracked the walls...

It sounds stupid to have a block that you cant rebuild but I have heard of worse things.

Can anyone tell me for sure what I can do with this block??? :stupid

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Posted: May 18 2005,9:00 pm

Post # 2

Well it all depends on how bad the cylinders are, the 502 has a large bore "4.470" as it is, I'd have it checked and see where it would clean up, then get it sonic checked then go from there!.. :good

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MrCord

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Posted: May 19 2005,8:18 am

Post # 3

Do you think it would be worth it to put a stoker kit in it???

Other wise I am looking at a merlinIII 540 or just a simple 454...

Anythoughts??? Or know anyone that is selling a motor?

My goal is about 400-450 horse.. Biggest thing is a motor that will be reliable as long as Im nice to it...

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Posted: May 19 2005,11:31 am

Post # 4

If all you're looking for is 400-450hp, save yourself a WHOLE pile of money and put a 454 in there. A stocker with a little bit of cam and a good induction system will give you that easy and you can run the shit out of it trouble free!.. :good

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Posted: May 19 2005,11:48 am

Post # 5

And then when it does spin a bearing you can machine it :rotflmao

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MrCord

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Posted: May 19 2005,1:26 pm

Post # 6

Can you turn me in the right dirrection to get one? Â

I can change out heads and do basic mechanical work, but building a motor is a little outta my expertise. Â

I would be the one to line up the timing chain wrong!!!

So how should I go About this? Â And More importantly, will a 454 bolt up the same as a 502???

Thanks for the Help :beer

Edited by MrCord on May 19 2005,1:28 pm

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Posted: May 19 2005,1:30 pm

Post # 7

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4551081574&rd=1
SOME I FOUND AFTER SPENDING TOO MUCH? SEEMS GOOD JUDGE FOR YOUR SELF. GOOD LUCK :good

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MrCord

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Posted: May 19 2005,2:20 pm

Post # 8

Thanks

Looks way clean... But once I buy the heads, etc.. Im back to the price of a crate motor... Arent I???

Another question: does the 502 and the 454 have the same engine mounts, exhaust patern headers, etc? so I dont have to buy all new accesories!

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Posted: May 19 2005,3:00 pm

Post # 9

accessory brackets, motor mounts, heads, intake should work the oil pan and timing cover are different. but gen IV and older parts are more availible and cheaper than the 502. I would verifi with gofast and builder. I'm learnng but still a little green.

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Posted: May 20 2005,5:26 am

Post # 10

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,11:48 am)

And then when it does spin a bearing you can machine it :rotflmao

Build it right you don't spin bearings!..

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Posted: May 20 2005,5:29 am

Post # 11

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,1:30 pm)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4551081574&rd=1
SOME I FOUND AFTER SPENDING TOO MUCH? SEEMS GOOD JUDGE FOR YOUR SELF. GOOD LUCK :good

Could be good but you don't know until you get it and tear it down to check it all out!.. :stupid

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Posted: May 20 2005,5:38 am

Post # 12

Quote (MrCord @ May 19 2005,2:20 pm)

Thanks

Why would you buy heads, you have aluminum ovals with the big valves those will fit the early block, the only thing is the crank, I do believe you have a one piece seal crank! The exhaust bolts up to the heads and I do believe the mounting holes on the front of the block are the same!.. BTW, what happened when it blew up, any parts left that's good??.. :stupid

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Posted: May 20 2005,8:36 am

Post # 13

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,5:26 am)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,11:48 am)

And then when it does spin a bearing you can machine it :rotflmao

Build it right you don't spin bearings!..

That's exactly why I didn't buy create. I no longer trust assembley line engines. GET OUT THE MICROMETER.

DON'T POKE THE BEAR!

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Posted: May 20 2005,8:38 am

Post # 14

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,5:29 am)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,1:30 pm)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4551081574&rd=1
SOME I FOUND AFTER SPENDING TOO MUCH? SEEMS GOOD JUDGE FOR YOUR SELF. GOOD LUCK :good

Could be good but you don't know until you get it and tear it down to check it all out!.. :stupid

This a link to a builder good parts and right attitude. just add parts and wala. Oh and check that valve clearence thing. :stupid

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Posted: May 20 2005,7:50 pm

Post # 15

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 20 2005,8:36 am)

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,5:26 am)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,11:48 am)

And then when it does spin a bearing you can machine it :rotflmao

Build it right you don't spin bearings!..

That's exactly why I didn't buy create. I no longer trust Â assembley line engines. GET OUT THE MICROMETER.

Ya know there is nothing wrong with buying a crate motor or a "kit", you can't beat the price on some of those for what you get, you couldn't piece it out for that, I look at it as buying parts!. Nothing is ever "ready to go", you buy a crate motor the first thing you do is tear it all apart and measure it all up as if you were starting from scratch, 10 to 1 you'll find something that ain't right for your application, same with a kit you need to measure it all up and check everything!. "Building" and "Assembling" a motor is two different animals, anybody that can turn a wrench can slap a motor together it's a no brainer, but to "build" one is what determines how long it will last!..

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Posted: May 20 2005,7:52 pm

Post # 16

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 20 2005,8:38 am)

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,5:29 am)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,1:30 pm)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4551081574&rd=1
SOME I FOUND AFTER SPENDING TOO MUCH? SEEMS GOOD JUDGE FOR YOUR SELF. GOOD LUCK :good

Could be good but you don't know until you get it and tear it down to check it all out!.. :stupid

This a link to a builder good parts and right attitude. just add parts and wala. Oh and check that valve clearence thing. Â :stupid

Good parts and attitude don't mean the motor is any good!..

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Posted: May 21 2005,2:04 am

Post # 17

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 19 2005,11:31 am)

Art's right, if all you want is 450 hp, you'd be way ahead of the game with a good, just over stock 454. :good

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Posted: May 23 2005,8:27 am

Post # 18

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,7:52 pm)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 20 2005,8:38 am)

Quote (GoFastRacer @ May 20 2005,5:29 am)

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 19 2005,1:30 pm)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4551081574&rd=1
SOME I FOUND AFTER SPENDING TOO MUCH? SEEMS GOOD JUDGE FOR YOUR SELF. GOOD LUCK :good

Could be good but you don't know until you get it and tear it down to check it all out!.. :stupid

This a link to a builder good parts and right attitude. just add parts and wala. Oh and check that valve clearence thing. Â :stupid

Good parts and attitude don't mean the motor is any good!..

I agree 100 percent! But, the average guy has to trust somone most people don't have the years of experience or accumulated tools. You are the exception. It's kewl you share youy expertise so freely Thank You GF

Edited by HAKUNA MA"TATA" on May 23 2005,9:23 am

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MrCord

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Posted: May 23 2005,11:45 am

Post # 19

I think I agree about the 454... The more I look for parts for a 502 the more I am finding that they are a pain in the ass to find for a good price. I still need to go get the boat and pull the motor, to really find out the extent of the damage... But its never good when you motor sounds like you dumped a bunch of forks in the garbage desposal

Then abruptly stops...

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MrCord

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Posted: May 23 2005,11:45 am

Post # 20

Anyone have a 454 block for sale??? Or GFR, how much to build one for me???

Edited by MrCord on May 23 2005,11:46 am

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Posted: May 23 2005,3:11 pm

Post # 21

Hey GFR!! what do you think about sleaving a cylinder in a stock 454?? I have one that came out of a truck. It was running, but it had water in one cylinder that has about an inch crack in it. I have been told that it can be done, what are your thoughts??

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Posted: May 24 2005,6:11 am

Post # 22

Quote (HAKUNA MA"TATA" @ May 23 2005,8:27 am)

You're welcome, I don't mind helping at all if I can save anybody some grief, when I was learning all this shit there were no boards to get info and I had to learn it by myself "the hard way", you wouldn't believe the stuff I've destroyed learning!. :laugh

You still don't trust anyone before you do you're homework, and you have to remember man is not perfect, the best screw up sometimes!..

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Posted: May 24 2005,6:15 am

Post # 23

Quote (MrCord @ May 23 2005,11:45 am)

I think I agree about the 454... Â The more I look for parts for a 502 the more I am finding that they are a pain in the ass to find for a good price. Â I still need to go get the boat and pull the motor, to really find out the extent of the damage... Â But its never good when you motor sounds like you dumped a bunch of forks in the garbage desposal

Â Then abruptly stops...

Before you get nuts it's best you tear it down and see where you stand, it may not be that bad???... But forks in a disposal don't sound good!.. :laugh

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Posted: May 24 2005,6:19 am

Post # 24

Quote (MrCord @ May 23 2005,11:45 am)

Anyone have a 454 block for sale??? Or GFR, how much to build one for me???

I have a real good one but it's more than you need, but you might want to get a hold of this guy, he's over your way, it don't sound bad for the price!.. :good

"I have a 454 4 bolt shortblock, apart for inspection $400. The thing was left

without the heads on, got rusty, and the owner opted to get an assembled

short block to save time. This one is standard bore, should be able to stay

at .030 as I was able to remove pistons without dynamite. Crank is cast,

already at .010, with stock 3/8" rods and stock pistons. Conveniently located

in Southern California."

agt001@aol.com

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Posted: May 24 2005,6:30 am

Post # 25

Quote (Carrera Elite @ May 23 2005,3:11 pm)

Chevy decks are thin so it's hard to get a sleave to stay put, but as long as you keep it as a low compression stocker it will work fine!.. :good

If you put compression to it and use it as a hot rod motor with high rpm's, you'll end up with a leak been there done that!.. :cry

Of course you would need to find someone that knows what they're doing to do it!. :rolleyes

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