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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 03 2007,12:52 pm Post # 1 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

I need to attempt to repair a stress crack on the Blue Canoe :break Its seems to be caused by years of trailer usage on the beatup ole Apache Trail because its right next to the inner right bunk and follows the strake. I've attempted quite a few fixs with various methods and it still comes back.

What type of mat and resin should I be using?

I know grinding out all the damage is important and getting it prepped real good is a big part of it. This is a chopper gun boat so there starts the problem, pretty flimsy.

How about accessing from the top and glassing a piece of reinforcing wood on the bottom?


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Post Icon Posted: April 03 2007,2:10 pm Post # 2 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Is it in the corner of the strake? Many times there are problems there - either bubbles or pooling of resin or gelcoat. If there were bubbles that turned into blisters you may have to grind/sand back several inches from the area of visible damage.

If there is a void that needs to be filled then a mixure of either vinylester resin and microballoons or, my fav, - West Systems epoxy and microballoons to fill the void is a good route.

If you think the crack is due to or made worse by the flex of the hull right there then some support from the inside might be a good call.

A picture sure would help the dianosis. :D


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Post Icon Posted: April 03 2007,2:13 pm Post # 3 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

spell check would help me too. :break
(diagnosis)

As for using wood on the inside - I'd probably go with a couple/few layers of bi-directional glass instead.


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 03 2007,3:55 pm Post # 4 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

I usually have very little pride, but if I posted a pic of the mess I've made :puke  I'd be a little embarassed :eek  :laugh

Its really just a crack. Too many late afternoon banzai runs trying to get to shore before the Monsoon tidal waves sink ya.

Its an area from just in front of where the motor stringer stops and runs about 2-3 ft forward. I patch it and it just comes back. Right now it is only leaking in 2 places about 8 inches long but I want to redo and clean up the 4-5 years of half ass work/mess I've made. It really needs to be flipped to get to it correctly. But that will have to wait till I'm ready to do the whole boat.


Edited by AZKC on April 03 2007,3:57 pm


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Post Icon Posted: April 04 2007,11:08 am Post # 5 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

OK, be that way!  :laugh

When you grind it down to get ready to fix it, take a dremel and make a slight undercut along both sides of the length of the crack. Clean it very well - lots of acetone  :D

When you fill it be sure to push the filler up under and inside the existing gelcoat. That should help hold the patch in place. :good


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,11:55 am Post # 6 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

You still recommending the epoxy with the bubble stuff or should I use something else. And after talking to the local dealer for West System :banghead  I'm going to need part numbers please, the guy on the phone must not of had much training :beat

Edited by AZKC on April 05 2007,12:01 pm


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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,2:22 pm Post # 7 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Again, no pictures so I can't see how big the damage is, but I'm guessing not very big - soooo:

I'd recommend the Group A size (that's a quart) so you'll want the Group A 105 Resin and the Group A 205 hardener. That's a relatively fast hardener, which is what you want cause you'll be working upside down.

And of course you'll need some of the 300 series mini pumps - these are very cool. It's a pump that screws right into the container (one for resin, one smaller one for hardener) and it's a one pump to one pump ratio so you can't goof up the mix and go to hot or cold.

I'm assuming you'll be painting of gelcoating over this. The resin has a pretty good shelf life and if you ever want to use it in the interior as a clear coat over bare wood (which looks great) all you have to do is switch to the #207 hardener. Makes a great clear coat.

As for thickening it I'd use the 406 filler - that's a general purpose silica. If you think it takes a tremendous amount of abuse in that area you can use the 404 filler instead - higher density, usually use it for high stress areas and bonding. It's a powdery substance you mix it in with the resin/hardener mixture a little at a time til you get it the consistency you want. Also makes it a heck of a lot easier working upside down.

And if you have some wide, clear packing tape it helps keep the mixture in place while it cures - pull it off before full cure though.  :D


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,3:02 pm Post # 8 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Perfect. Thanks. I like the clear packing tape trick :good

Maybe I could just fix it that way :p  just do a vinyl wrap on the whole bottom :break


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AZKCMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,3:49 pm Post # 9 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

So calling the 2 places in the 520 that carry West System, both are out of stock on resin :banghead  seems it is quite popular out here right now for refinishing hardwood floors :confused Off to Ebay :D


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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,6:53 pm Post # 10 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

There's always WestMarine.....
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp....0

:eek those retail prices are scary though


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Post Icon Posted: April 05 2007,7:53 pm Post # 11 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 05 2007,2:22 pm)
Again, no pictures so I can't see how big the damage is, but I'm guessing not very big - soooo:

I'd recommend the Group A size (that's a quart) so you'll want the Group A 105 Resin and the Group A 205 hardener. That's a relatively fast hardener, which is what you want cause you'll be working upside down.

And of course you'll need some of the 300 series mini pumps - these are very cool. It's a pump that screws right into the container (one for resin, one smaller one for hardener) and it's a one pump to one pump ratio so you can't goof up the mix and go to hot or cold.

I'm assuming you'll be painting of gelcoating over this. The resin has a pretty good shelf life and if you ever want to use it in the interior as a clear coat over bare wood (which looks great) all you have to do is switch to the #207 hardener. Makes a great clear coat.

As for thickening it I'd use the 406 filler - that's a general purpose silica. If you think it takes a tremendous amount of abuse in that area you can use the 404 filler instead - higher density, usually use it for high stress areas and bonding. It's a powdery substance you mix it in with the resin/hardener mixture a little at a time til you get it the consistency you want. Also makes it a heck of a lot easier working upside down.

And if you have some wide, clear packing tape it helps keep the mixture in place while it cures - pull it off before full cure though.  :D

Nice stuff, Styrene Man.... :good  :cool  :bowdown
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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,5:34 am Post # 12 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Wow, that is some expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for!..
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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,6:58 am Post # 13 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 05 2007,6:53 pm)
There's always WestMarine.....
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp....0

:eek those retail prices are scary though

Ebay had nothing, just a couple of mixers :stupid Bluewater Marine here in town is expecting a shipment next week, if it doesn't make it looks like West Marine will have a new customer.


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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,7:26 am Post # 14 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ April 06 2007,5:34 am)
Wow, that is some expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for!..

That's true. The stuff is good. I'll be wrapping up that Laveycraft tomorrow. I'm just afraid my buddy is going to think it's bullet-proof and flip the damn thing  :eek


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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,7:46 am Post # 15 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 06 2007,7:26 am)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ April 06 2007,5:34 am)
Wow, that is some expensive stuff, but you get what you pay for!..

That's true. The stuff is good. I'll be wrapping up that Laveycraft tomorrow. I'm just afraid my buddy is going to think it's bullet-proof and flip the damn thing  :eek

What model Lavey is it? :stupid
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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,8:37 am Post # 16 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

It's a Sebring...modified V something like 20.8 :stupid has a 250 hp whacker that hangs way off the back.

Fun ride.  :good


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Post Icon Posted: April 06 2007,9:36 pm Post # 17 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Unless he has brain fade, if it's setup right he shouldn't flip it. Is the reason you redid the transom because the motor hangs way out!.. :stupid
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Post Icon Posted: April 07 2007,12:23 pm Post # 18 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Yeah, too much compression on the transom....took a bit of water and delaminated. I think it's in pretty good shape now. It had many months with fans going to dry it out :flamed


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Post Icon Posted: April 07 2007,9:54 pm Post # 19 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 07 2007,12:23 pm)
Yeah, too much compression on the transom....took a bit of water and delaminated. I think it's in pretty good shape now. It had many months with fans going to dry it out :flamed

That's what I thought, same thing happened to a buddy of mine had to replace the transom, just too much weight hangin out there. Tell him he needs to tie the transom up to the stringers it's not a big deal to do, that'll take care of it otherwise it'll happen all over again!..
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Post Icon Posted: April 08 2007,8:30 am Post # 20 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

"HE" won't touch it, that's where I come in.....I reinforced the whole transom beyond the corners, tied it to the stringers and the deck.

After the glass is done aluminum brackets will be welded up to fit on the inside. :good


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Post Icon Posted: April 08 2007,9:27 am Post # 21 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 07 2007,12:23 pm)
Yeah, too much compression on the transom....took a bit of water and delaminated.

That's pretty common on Out Boards , isn't it?? :stupid


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Post Icon Posted: April 09 2007,5:52 am Post # 22 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 08 2007,8:30 am)
"HE" won't touch it, that's where I come in.....I reinforced the whole transom beyond the corners, tied it to the stringers and the deck.

After the glass is done aluminum brackets will be welded up to fit on the inside. :good

On my friends boat I put aluminum plate from the stringers to the top of the transom with a backing plate, and attached it to the engine cradle, never had a problem after that!.. :good
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Post Icon Posted: April 09 2007,7:56 am Post # 23 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GoFastRacer @ April 09 2007,5:52 am)
Quote (GlassMan @ April 08 2007,8:30 am)
"HE" won't touch it, that's where I come in.....I reinforced the whole transom beyond the corners, tied it to the stringers and the deck.

After the glass is done aluminum brackets will be welded up to fit on the inside. :good

On my friends boat I put aluminum plate from the stringers to the top of the transom with a backing plate, and attached it to the engine cradle, never had a problem after that!.. :good

I sure would like to see a shot of that. :D


It's a fact of Life:

After Monday and Tuesday, even the Calendar says : WTF .......
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Post Icon Posted: April 09 2007,8:00 am Post # 24 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (Carrera Elite @ April 08 2007,9:27 am)
Quote (GlassMan @ April 07 2007,12:23 pm)
Yeah, too much compression on the transom....took a bit of water and delaminated.

That's pretty common on Out Boards , isn't it?? :stupid

Maybe that's the real reason they call 'em Jack Plates? :stupid
Cause they jack up the transom?  :laugh


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GoFastRacerMale Offline
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Post Icon Posted: April 09 2007,9:51 pm Post # 25 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply

Quote (GlassMan @ April 09 2007,7:56 am)
Quote (GoFastRacer @ April 09 2007,5:52 am)
Quote (GlassMan @ April 08 2007,8:30 am)
"HE" won't touch it, that's where I come in.....I reinforced the whole transom beyond the corners, tied it to the stringers and the deck.

After the glass is done aluminum brackets will be welded up to fit on the inside. :good

On my friends boat I put aluminum plate from the stringers to the top of the transom with a backing plate, and attached it to the engine cradle, never had a problem after that!.. :good

I sure would like to see a shot of that. :D

Never did take pics of it, should have though it looked pretty good all anodized!.. :good
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